Desert Landscaping

The Best of Both Worlds With Water-Keep
In low rainfall regions of the US, most of the homeowner’s water bill can be traced to uses outside the home. In fact, it is estimated that 50-70 percent of urban water consumption in these areas takes place outside the house.

In an effort to reduce costs, many homeowners have opted for zero-scaping, consisting of a few shrubs adapted to desertic conditions arranged around decorative boulders, rather than xeriscaping.

Others, recognizing the beneficial effects, both physically and psychologically, of lush landscaping, have planted luxuriant paradises which require almost constant watering just to keep alive.

Yet, the home gardener can have the best of both worlds, low water consumption and lush surroundings, if he mixes superabsorbent polymers like Water-Keep into the soil, if he landscapes to group together plants of similar water needs and if he installs an efficient irrigation system.

Pick Native Plants
The desert landscaper who prefers the easy life plant may plant a large selection of native and dry climate trees, shrubs and perennials with lush foliage and attractive flowers, if he prepares the soil with water crystals according to the proper application rates.

The first year after transplanting is critical: water efficient natives from the US Southwest desert, Australia, Africa and the Mediterranean countries have the ability to survive on very little moisture once they are established for a year or two in the garden. Water-Keep granules will help the early establishment period with a steady reservoir of moisture around the roots. Over watering may also create plant problems. Water-Keep granules will prevent overwatering by storing excess water in the crystals. Remember that 1 lb of Water-Keep can absorb 47 gallons of rainwater and about 30 gallons of tap water.

Use Drip Irrigation
Irrigation is recommended in combination with superabsorbent application. Drip irrigation is recommended to help create deeper roots. This minimizes water loss through evaporation by as much as 60 percent and reduces the propagation of weeds that thrive if a sprinkler system is used. Introducing Water-Keep throughout the garden will help distribute the water from your irrigation system more evenly and ensure uniform growth of lawns and garden beds. Some plants need more moisture than others. Drip irrigation places water in the root zone to help create deeper roots for superior growth and healthier plants. Only the root zone is irrigated. No water is wasted on open spaces between plants. This reduces water loss to evaporation by as much as 60 percent and reduces the home gardener's work accordingly by providing less wet ground surface to sprout weeds.
 
Place Sprinklers Properly, Especially in Sandy Soils
Often, many plant types are planted together in the home garden. Some need more moisture, others less. Sandy soils don't allow horizontal water movement into dry areas so correct sprinkler spacing is critical for uniform coverage necessary for uniform growth of lawns and planter beds. Under these conditions, all sprinklers must be spaced to throw to each adjacent sprinkler head. Spacing must be even closer in windy areas to compensate for wind distortion. In these sandy soils, emitter spacing also must be closer to obtain fuller coverage of the root zone. If the area isn't windy, microspray heads may be more efficient than drip in the sand. With finer textured soils, sprinkler spacing is not quite as critical as in the sand, but lawn sprinkler heads still should be spaced to throw to adjoining heads to assure equal watering throughout. Runoff and standing water in low spots can be avoided by shorter but more frequent irrigation cycles, with 'soak time' between cycles.

Nature's Tricks
Plants efficient in the use of water employ many tricks to stay alive. Some go dormant in the summer. Others have leaves modified to conserve available moisture. They may have a small surface; be thick, waxy or leathery; or fuzzy or hairy. Others have green trunk and branches. Still others have well developed, deep root systems designed to grab available moisture. Plants native to dry wash areas, such as poplar trees, may be high water users with very aggressive root systems. Often, thirsty young plants become water efficient adults. Many fast growing plants will require a lot of water, but, as growth slows with age and deep root systems develop, they may require only occasional deep watering. Deciduous plants may require more water in summer, but decreased water in winter.

Hydrozoning
Grouping plants according to their water needs is called hydrozoning. Highest water use plants should be closest to the water supply and less thirsty plants farther away. This grouping allows you to minimize the irrigation system you need.

	In the dry climates of the Southwest, plants with the highest water use, such as annuals and subtropicals, should be close to the house, along patios, borders and walls.
	Vigorous plants, such as cassias, Texas rangers and mesquites, are planted in the moderate water zone.
	Drought tolerant trees and shrubs can be planted further away in the low water zone.

Group By Preferred Sun Exposure
Plants can be divided into three basic groups by light and heat tolerances.

	Sun and heat loving vegetation should be planted on the south and west sides of structures or shade trees. These include the best of interior desert natives. Shade from them on air conditioners can reduce power bills.
	Heat tolerant plants which are easily burned by hot afternoon sun should be set along the east side of a structure or tree. Plants tolerating some shade also belong in this group.

Shade loving plants and those with limited heat tolerance belong on the north side of structures or trees. When working with this group, the gardener must be careful of reflected heat from adjacent sidewalks, driveways, streets or masonry walls. Planting areas for the more sensitive groups can be expanded through the use of shade trees and shade structures. The filtered shade of an acacia or palo verde tree is a perfect place for plants sensitive to sunburn, especially if they are potted to prevent root competition for water. Very sensitive plants should be potted so they can be moved to appropriate protection as seasons change.

Transplanting Tips
When you shop for container-grown plants, look for plant vitality of vigorous appearance and well-developed foliage. Avoid plants with roots growing out the bottom of the container.

	Store in shade until planting time. Keep plants watered daily until removed from containers.
	Avoid using any kind of fertilizer, except a slow release type which will not injure new roots, at planting time. Make new fertilizer application only after plants have been in for 3 to 4 weeks and then use an organic type only.
	Space plants to provide for mature width and height to reduce competition for space and moisture and to reduce the need to control by pruning. Native plants need this attention to spacing to create the natural environment effect.
	Plant as soon as possible. Plan to do your planting soon after purchasing to prevent drying out of the root ball.
	Prior to planting, fill the container several times to ensure a moist root ball. Remove the plant from the container. If the container is metal, cut the sides just before you plant. If plastic, turn upside down and knock the edge against a hard surface to allow the root ball to slip out. Handle plant by root ball—not by lifting on the stem—this prevents root injury.
	Prepare a proper sized hole. Dig holes for new plants at least three times wider than root ball with sloping sides. Dig the hole only as deep as the root ball. In clay soils, it helps root growth if the ground is loosened beyond a tree’s drip line.
	Fill with water to prewet surrounding soil before planting. If water does not drain in an hour or two, dig a chimney drain off center of hole 6 feet deep to get more adequate drainage.
	Prepare soil for non-natives. Mix soil dug out of the hole with 2/3 soil and 1/3 organic blend back fill. Place mix under the plant and around the sides. Pack soil around the sides of the root ball. Run water into mix as you fill around the sides to eliminate air pocket formations. After soil settles, fill to top of root ball. For native plants backfill with existing soil, apply organic mulch to surface 2-4 inches thick.